The plan had always been for – blended, staggered, semi – retirement. The idea is that after my sixtieth birthday I would allow myself more flexibility around work and leisure. Also that “work” could mean all sorts of things, including volunteering, and alternative ways of income generation.
So during the winter of 2024-25 I had freelanced at my old job. It’s not particularly well paid, but it more than covers my costs and creates a bit of a war-chest for squandering during the summer. On 28 March I left the job, and on Saturday 29 March I set off from home for Bilbao. This is a brief record of that trip.
Saturday 29 March 2025
Cheltenham – Dinton (Honeysuckle Homestead) 129km distance 1615m ascent
A pleasant sunny day. I’m slightly apprehensive knowing the big distance planned for today, but I want to be near enough to Poole so that I don’t stress tomorrow. I’ve asked https://cycle.travel/ (which is brilliant and highly recommended) to devise me a route, which I’ve put onto my Suunto Vertical watch. Experiments with this navigational approach have seemed OK. In fact, over the course of this trip, I find this system largely excellent.
I deviate through the Cotswolds and experience my first piece of good luck: I locate my camera which I’d left during a walk four weeks ago, nestled in oak leaves where we had stopped to have lunch. Apart from a discharged battery, it’s fine. I cycle through the quiet Cotswolds, stopping at Tetbury to purchase cakes and crossing the M4 on a minor country road. However, by Chippenham my bike is noisy and grinding: and something is clearly wrong. I deviate to Melksham, where the bike shop is derelict and abandoned. I now have to further deviate to Trowbridge, but en route, with the help of an elderly cyclist I locate https://www.thepedalshed.co.uk/ in a homestead in Holt. James the mechanic responds to my phone call, and turns out and with good humour fixes the bike, which involves selling me a reconditioned back wheel at an amazingly reasonable price. James tuts at my ill preparedness, frowning at the chain and cogs. But I’m on my way in no time, and wend my way to Honeysuckle Homestead campsite, which I’d identified previously as being open. Not cheap, for just me and a pup tent, but what I need.
Sunday 30 March 2025
Cheltenham – St Malo (Cité d’Aleth Camping https://www.camping-saintmalo.fr/ ) 57km 693m
The clocks have gone forwards, which gives me one hour less of daylight. But it turns out to be an easy run to Poole, albeit with seemingly a series of east-west ridges to negotiate. I’m there well before check-in starts. Easy crossing, and then a quick run up to the campsite in St Malo just as darkness falls. Definitely the best site if you just want to stop asap after the ferry.
Monday 31 March 2025
St Malo – Plérin (Camping des rosaires) 129km 1620m
Pack up the tent soaked from a heavy dew-fall. Camping has cost 9.50€, less than half previous night, for a much nicer site. Mists rise with the sun. I more or less follow https://www.lavelomaritime.com/ the whole day. I’ve previously loaded this into my watch – which turns out to be really helpful, as the signage cannot be totally relied on. Mostly the route is along small roads, but is well considered and fun. Not unlike the English coasts on the opposite side of the Channel, this is undulating with lots of what in Devon would be called coombes. Countryside is rich, fertile and green. Notably a few weeks advanced on the Cotswolds. Campsite is shut, but I sneak in and find a tap with running water which is good enough for me. A very chilly wash.
Tuesday 1 April 2025
Plérin – Ploumanac’h (West Camping) 115km 1506m
I’m labouring up the numerous hills with my laden bike. This makes the going pretty slow, but I’m constant and able to conquer all, albeit in the lowest gear. There is a stiff wind, but thankfully from the NE, so not in my face. It’s a day of strong colours: a cloudless blue sky, a deeper blue of the sea, and the rich fertile green of the countryside. I potter on through pretty villages and the occasional chocolate-box town. Seems to be sparsely populated, but the farming looks good, what with the swiftly growing arable crops. I see most farmers have made a first cut of their grass fields. Struggle finding an open campsite, but after several attempts I’m directed to West Camping. Expensive at 20.50€, for which I’m given a sloping pitch. The place is empty, so I’m able to utilize the wooden decking outside one of the many holiday huts. I’m hugely impressed by the signage and attention to detail of the route. Having a GPS on the watch is very handy to make navigation a breeze.
Wednesday 2 April 2025
Ploumanac’h – Morlaix (Youth Hostel) 107km
An undulating day, with rapid descents into coastal villages followed by arduous crawls up and over to the next one. The towns and villages don’t individually register, so it becomes a pleasant progression along the coast, with movement and change being the abiding experience. I finish at Morlaix, which is where I’m turning south. There’s no campsite and, not inclined to wild-camp, I’m happy to find there’s a youth-hostel, which is mostly empty. I get a room to myself. I wander into the town in the evening, sheltering in its valley. Earlier I had tired of the hills, and completed the last few kilometres of the day along a fast N road.
Thursday 3 April 2025
Morlaix – Gourec (Camping Ground) 98km 664m
Now on the Velodyssee – https://www.cycling-lavelodyssee.com/ – which will take me from here to Spain. There is an initial climb out of Morlaix through pleasant woods, but the route soon picks up an old railway line, so the climb is steady but lengthy, maybe for 9km. It’s a contrast to the precipitous hills of the coast. Eventually I crest, and there is any equally steady descent towards Carhaix. I’d somehow imagined this might be a place of interest, but it is unprepossessing and made grottier by the drizzle that has set in. I shop and carry on, soon to reach the Nantes-Brest canal, which La Velodyssee will now follow for 100s of kilometres. The canal feels rural and remote, seemingly running through endless woods. It is in good condition and well maintained, but there is the odd fallen tree crossing the water, and I don’t encounter a single vessel. Unfortunately, the drizzle and the sandy tow-path combine to coat me, the bike and luggage with grit. The gears and brakes complain noisily. I arrive at Gourec bedraggled and chilly wet. Thankfully the rain eases off and I catch the patronne of the campsite as she is leaving. It’s closed, but she cheerfully agrees I can pitch my tent, and there is water available. I clean the bike, and cook up my food in the shelter of the locked toilet block. I’m feeling a bit sorry for myself, but the warm food, and warmer sleeping back revive me.
Friday 4 April 2025
Gourec – Rochefort en Terre (Camping Au Gre des Vents) 131km 728m
Looking at the map, visiting Nantes appears to be quite a deviation from a direct route south. Furthermore, I’m not sure I need to visit big cities on this trip. In this light I make a decision to turn off Velodyssee just past Quily and take the V3 cycle route towards Questembert, which I have to confess, I chose because I liked the name so much. It turns out to be great to be off the canal, and the new cycle route is an old railway, which is wonderfully straight and direct. Like the Velodyssee it is to an exceptionally high standard, with every single junction having been considered in regard to cyclist’s well-being and safety. I’d spotted this campsite in Questembert, but I’d not read the fine-print, since it is actually in the region, but some 11km away from the town. I had to visit the tourist information centre before the penny dropped and it was a wearisome end to the day, particularly as getting there involved a bit of retracing my inward journey. Redeemed by the campsite being really lovely, welcoming and cheap.
Saturday 5 April 2025
A day of rest. I only cycle to the shops and to take in the picturesque hill-top town of Rochefort. Otherwise I have a good long walk, and read my book in the sunshine next to the little lake.
Sunday 6 April 2025
Rochefort-en-Terre – Saint Brévin Les Pins (Camping Les Dunes) 125km 947m
Quite happy to be away from the designated cycle routes, and following Cycle Travel’s suggested way through a series of small towns and villages. Sunday is more lively than expected, and I breakfast on a plaited tress in the first town I reach, and take in a large market at the next. As I close in on the Loire, the land becomes flat with lots of sea-marshes. There is a salt industry here, with innumerable small evaporation pans, seemingly supporting both large and small operations. I pass through Saint Nazaire, which is my first big city and seems pleasant enough, but I’ve no wish to linger. I’ve noted that the bridge over the Loire does carry cycles, but none of my guides recommend it. I can see why, since one is only on the shoulder alongside the considerable heavy traffic: but then, this is no different from a normal day in Britain, so I’m not phased much. It’s a haul to the top of the bridge and a whizz down the otherside, and I stop at the first site I find that’s open. This turns out to have a fine view over the mouth of the Loire and the Atlantic. I WhatsApp home with my achievement, noting that the Tour de France will never be able to cross this bridge without me remarking that I’ve done so too.
Monday 7 April 2025
Saint Brévin Les Pins – Saint Jean de Monts (Camping L’Ocean) 122km 596m
The day starts with seemingly endless beaches, often with rather posh hotels and villas on the front. Again, I’m completely in awe of the cycling infrastructure and quality of the route. It really is outstanding and uncompromisingly good. The weather remains just about perfect, cloudless sunny, but with a chill to the air that means cycling is pleasant. Eventually the beaches give way to the flat-lands of salt marshes. There are odd livestock, but it seems agriculturally barren, although there are obvious drainage ditches, and the fields seem dry enough. One presumes the area must be vulnerable to inundation with high-tides or strong weather systems. Eventually I return to more touristic areas, and struggle again to find an open campsite. In this place everywhere seems geared towards families seeking resorts, with swimming complexes, bars and discos. This is the first site that would have me. Again a heck of a price for a plot of ground and a shower. I’ve learnt that the one star sites are much nicer.
Tuesday 8 April 2025
Saint Jean de Monts – Saint Michel-en-l’Herm (Campsite Les Mizottes) 116km 769m
Worried by my creaking bike, I purchase some oil, which cures the problem instantly. Doh! I continue mostly to stick with Velodyssee, but I’ll take a more direct route south if that presents itself. The journey is mixed between stretches of beach, forest and salt-marsh. My eventual campsite has only a handful of customers. The disco blasted out for the five of us sitting in the bar, where I’m located only to access the WiFi. I’m surprised by the amount of ascent and descent that is being registered by my Suunto watch. It feels incredibly flat.
Wednesday 9 April 2025
Saint Michel-en-l’Herm – Les Mathes (Camping Palombiere) 150km 364m
Wall-to-wall sunshine, although remaining cool. Again, a mix of long periods in different terrain: beaches, forests and salt-marsh. La Rochelle looked lovely, and I stopped there for lunch. It would have been a good place for overnight, but the timing was wrong. I skipped Rochefort, however, and spared myself 25km of dog-leg into that town. Pretty weary towards the end of the day, and struggled to find a camping. Luckily one closed site was staffed, and the receptionist phoned her mate, who waited for me to arrive and was welcoming and solicitous. It’s a vast but lovely site, set in trees. I’m the only camper, so have the place to myself.
Thursday 10 April 2025
Les Mathes – River Gironde 22km 151m ; River Gironde – Arès (Camping Pasteur) 128km 608m
The landscape is much dryer now, with undulating pine forests going on and on. A swift ride to the ferry, and then a bit of a wait for the crossing. Feels like this is an achievement and mile-stone: passing Bordeaux and heading for Spain. In the stretches between towns, the land seems very empty. A chore finding a camping site at the end of the day. This one is not on any map, website or data base I can see. I just followed a direction sign. Luckily still staffed, and the woman was extremely pleasant and helpful, seeing my exhaustion. Tucked me into a small patch in front of a tiny chalet, which means I can sit on their porch and use the table and chairs. Everything – absolutely everything – is covered in green tree pollen. The cycle paths look as if they are coloured asphalt – but it’s just the coating of pollen. Luckily I don’t seem to be allergic.
Friday 11 April 2025
Arès – Biscarrosse (Camping Calede) 87km 359m
I had planned to stop here out of sentiment. My family came here for holidays in 1969 and 1970. I can’t find our campsite, which I think may have disappeared during the half-century since; but the one where I end up is very nice: simple, friendly, and with direct access to the lake. An easy day and I reach here early afternoon, in time to have a cheeky skinny dip in the lake for old time’s sake. The route is now getting more lumpy.
Saturday 12 April 2025
Biscarrosse – Guéthay (Camping Merko) 154km 932m
Woke up to rain this morning, and had to pack up the tent soaking wet. Loaded up the bike under the cover of the bar area. Rain persisted through the morning, but cleared up a bit in the afternoon. Feels very much in the foothills of the Pyrenees, with a few slogs up the ascents. Huddled in the small porch of the Town Hall for lunch in Moliets-et-Maa. I was tempted to stop at Capbreton, which looked a pleasant and lively place, but hadn’t quite done the distance I wanted. Paid for this by having to slog on through Tarnos, Bayonne and Biaritz. Spotted a cluster of sites at Guéthay and determined to head here, although this turned the day into a long-one. Arrived late, and had plodded past the supermarkets in the towns, so not able to purchase any food. Used up my supplies of peanuts, noodles, cous cous and muesli. After 150km, it tastes just fine.
Sunday 13 April 2025
Guéthay – Pamplona (Albergue de Jesus y Maria) 27km 295m to the border ; 107km 1531m further to Pamplona
A slow plod to the border, which is unmarked. A number of attractive small towns en route, where I stop for patisseries and fruit. It is immediately apparent that Spain has not invested in the cycle route in the way that France has done. The path becomes unsealed, gritty and then stoney. Thankfully the route over the Pyrenees eventually took small roads, as I quickly became fed up with the tracks that were keeping me off the busy main road. It was a hell of a pull, which became chilly and wet as I hit the clouds. When I had time to notice, it was lovely countryside with beech woods mixed with pasture lands and small villages. It was sure nice coming down. I opted for the roads for the last 20km into Pamplona, unable to face the grind of unsealed tracks. I had read that those on the Camino Santiago de Composella have numerous hostels available (https://www.caminosleeps.com ), and decide to explore these. For 10€, it’s pleasant enough, with a good kitchen, bed and shower. It is enormous and very full. Although there are no doors between beds, the dorm is constructed so that there’s a good deal of privacy with partitions between the bunks. I manage to sleep well.
Monday 14 April 2025
Pamplona – Navarette (Albergue Municipal de Navarrete) 109km 1882m
I can’t remember exactly how or from where I down-loaded the route I’m following, but I’m pleased that mostly it is taking me along roads parallel with the Camino. Cycling along the track is not much fun, it can be sandy, gritty or rocky, and my – anyway very slow pace – is reduced even further. What’s more, the terrain has become much more hilly than I was used to in France. After the exertions my right knee starts aching, and I later diagnose this as popliteus tendonitis, for which rest is the best cure. Failing this, I purchase a granny-type support bandage at the pharmacy and dose myself with ibuprofen. The Albergue is OK, but unlike the clever design in Pamplona, I’m in a room with 13 other people, on old-fashioned bunk-beds. Those arriving early have appropriated the communal spaces, so I’m left feeling a bit closed in. This is made worse during the night, when one very large fellow, snores continuously like a drunk, overweight pig with a head cold. At midnight I despair of sleeping and relocate to the kitchen area, where I inflate my sleeping mat and bed down. The Patron emerges to disapprove, but he can’t deny the thunderous racket coming from the dorm, and leaves me be. I’m woken well before dawn, as others emerge from sleepless nights and settle for an early start in the desire to ensure there is no chance they share their next lodgings with the snoring villain.
Tuesday 15 April 2025
Navarette – Burgos (Albergue de Peregrinos Casa del Cubo de Burgos) 122km 1675m
As well as the climbs, I was battling a strong head-wind most of the day. The route I’ve down-loaded is certainly not the official one, but when it deviated away from the Camino, I stuck with it, as I’d got fed up with the N120 which is a busy old road. In fact, the Camino Santiago seems often to be tracking this. Nearly always there is a parallel walking/cycling track and at times this weaves off into the countryside and much quieter sections. But from what I can see, this is not a route that takes a walker deep and consistently into the countryside. I have developed some respect for the notion of modern day pilgrimage: setting aside our normal obligations and concerns, and moving slowly towards a far distant goal. So there may be spiritual reward in the journey. But I can think of many walks that would be more rewarding aesthetically. Anyway, my deviation did indeed take me well away from the N120, high into the surrounding hills and through a series of quiet, sleepy villages. However, it added a significant additional distance and left me a bit frustrated at the slow pace of the day (I suppose a true pilgrim would welcome digressions and diversions). Eventually my route returns me to the busy main road, and I rattle off the last 20km – fortuitously down hill – at pace. Like most cities, Burgos is pretty ugly in its outskirts, but the centre is intriguing and the cathedral glorious. Thankfully the hostel is another large well-constructed one, with good amenities. My tent, which has been soaked since my last night in France, can be aired and dried on a covered balcony.
Wednesday 16 April 2025
Burgos – Carrion de los Condes (Albergue Espiritu Santo) 95km 795m
Un jour sans. Fed up with the gravelly path (into a stiff head wind) I decided I’d construct quite a lengthy deviation along roads. Seemed like a good idea at the time, but added a considerable distance and with the added effort battling the weather, my knee hurt more and more. Dispiriting that I only made 60km towards Santiago, but cycled more than 90km. I’d hoped to go much further, but arriving here I realised there was no chance of that. I discovered a forgotten ice-pack in the freezer of the hostel, which I use (and later appropriate). Despite the sunshine, it is pretty chilly at times: it was 2C when I left Burgos this morning, necessitating a stop so that I could dig out my second pair of gloves and a warm jersey. I didn’t take these off all day. Cycling in Spain so far has struggled to match the experience in France. The off-road cycle paths are not much good for a laden road bike, whilst I’ve yet to find good routes on the smaller roads. Burgos cathedral was pretty breath-taking, although I didn’t get to look inside.
Thursday 17 April 2025
Rest. I hang around Carrion all day. The nuns (I presume they are nuns) are kindly and solicitous and don’t mind me at all. I fail to appreciate that, it being Maundy Thursday, all the shops shut at lunchtime. I’m reduced again to what emergency rations I’m carrying, plus what I can scrape together from the free food in the canteen (which includes half-an-onion, an ice-lolly, and plantain).
Last night was another dreadful snorer. I woke him up three times to shut him up. Thankfully he was gone when I eventually roused in the morning. This is the biggest disbenefit of these hostels!
Friday 18 April 2025 (Good Friday)
Carrion de los Condos – León (Albergue Santa Maria de Carbejal (Benedictinas Carbajalas)) 93km 628m
I’m pretty clear I’m not going to get to Santiago now. It’s only four days away, but that includes two significant climbs to above 1200m. Plus I somehow have developed some ambivalence towards this pilgrimage thing. On the one hand I applaud any effort to create a simplified and focussed time, that surely must be aided by the routine of wake, walk, sleep, repeat. On the other, I can’t get over that the actual route is uninspiring and blighted by traffic. I know it’s not for me to question the motives of the pilgrims – but I do this anyway! Why do they choose this way, why this destination, which is so crowded and rather drab. My intention now is to limp on to León, and maybe from there get to the coast. This is still over 200km, with a bloody great climb thrown in.
Actually the ride is much better than I might have expected. The wind stayed just behind my left shoulder, so I sort of tacked most of the way. The off-road paths were solid and smooth, and anyway I was mostly on asphalt. The ibuprofen did the biz. I completed the journey at a much faster rate than I’ve managed in recent days. All the museums and galleries are shut, but the city is heaving with Good Friday celebrations, including one that sets off from the Albergue where I’m staying.
Saturday 19 April 2025 León – Payares (Albergue) 73km 1114m
So that’s it. This is the furthest I’ll get. I spend the morning looking at museums in León, including a rather good contemporary art gallery. Then set off north for the coast. I’ve decided to break the journey, but with the ascent into the mountains it turns out to be a long tough day. The cycle route I’m committed to heads beyond any roads, and quickly turns into a mountain track, and I’m reduced to pushing my heavy bike up hill for several kilometres over rocks and mud. In the process I pass several flocks of sheep tended only by enormous mastiffs the size of Shetland ponies. They bark at me, but thankfully stay close by their charges. Eventually I regain the road, but it’s still up hill to a ski-station above Payares. It takes me a while fruitlessly looking for the Albergue to realise that the actual village is several hundred metres below, down a classic twisty mountain road. There’s a pretty breath-taking backdrop to the hostel of snow-capped mountains.
Sunday 20 April 2025
Payares – Oviedo 57km, 350m
A net descent of over 750m means I easily achieve my fastest average speed of the whole trip. The road initially is really steep, and I’m just a passenger, as my bike heeds the pull of gravity. Eventually we reach larger towns, and follow mountain rivers down towards Oviedo.
Although I’d planned to stay at the Albergue in Oviedo, after walking round the city for a few hours, I figured I’d take the Santander train in the afternoon rather than wait till tomorrow. This simplified the logistics and guaranteed I’d make the evening boat to Plymouth.
I in all I cycled 2353km and ascended 20992m. This took me 21 days of cycling and two rest days. My average daily distance (excluding the rest days) was just over 112km. The take-aways for me include:
- https://cycle.travel/ is a great resource. It’s free, although being run by a single guy, he’d welcome financial support.
- The Albergues of the various Camino are great value, but simple. If you need privacy to sleep, go elsewhere.
- From my experience thus far, the cycle routes in France are superb. Also, drivers tend to be courteous and careful. It took me some while to get used to them giving me priority whenever they could. La Velodyssee is a really great route that would be suitable for most cyclists, including young kids.
- The Spanish cycle routes are not in the same league as those in France. I’d suggest being wary of any route that is not on asphalt, as you might find yourself on a farm track.
- I definitely don’t need to walk the Camino Santiago de Compostella. Total respect to those who do choose to follow it, but it’s not for me – there are numerous better walks.